Tagged with Estonia

Kihnu: Not a Travel Guide

Kihnu: Not a Travel Guide

I got everything wrong about my visit to Kihnu. It was the wrong time. Early September, beyond the strict parameters of what is accepted as “season” in the Baltic countries. I had already been made quite aware of this rigidity, strolling along an empty beach in Jūrmala, Latvia on September 1st. The sun was bright, perfect … Continue reading


When I made my first greeting this morning it took a moment to arrive at the word. Tere. Hello. Tere. It is a gentle sound, a soft way of entering into someone’s awareness. It is a word as warm and gentle as I had found the Estonian people themselves.  

Chocolaterie Pierre, Tallinn

In Estonia I am eating the most chocolate since, I think, those few days in Bariloche, Argentina. Velvet sofas, red silk tablecloths, thick coffee and rich, dark chocolate: Chocolaterie Pierre has been the best chocolate experience of my trip. It is hidden away down a side alley in the Old Town, but still is almost … Continue reading